A few months ago, Mr D asked if I would be able to reline his favourite jacket. This jacket is at least 20 years old, and the lining was in shreds, but he loves it! He chose a sixties viscose fabric as his lining – see above. The old lining was plain grey.
I decided to make this a sewing lessons project – I’ve never made or lined a jacket and was worried it would end up in the bin if I tried to do it on my own.
Spoiler alert – it was a success! And Sara showed me a straightforward way to do it.
The first step was to carefully unpick the lining, and unpick and mark any darts or pleats. I only had to unpick just over half the lining – the second sleeve and front remained intact, which helped as a construction example when I was sewing the new lining.
I pressed those pieces and used them as pattern pieces, leaving an extra seam allowance of 0.5 inch around the pieces.
Sara showed me how to make the inside pockets and I used my serger to neaten some of the inside edges. The photo shows the pocket in the finished jacket.
The next step was to sew the darts, tack in the neck pleat. Then I sewed the front and back together and inset the sleeves. It looked like a rather snazzy dressing gown at this point!
Then, the exciting bit! I machine stitched the lining to the jacket. Starting at the back neck, along the front to the hem. Then the same on the other side.
I caught the jacket hem and sleeve hem up with a few stitches so it would not just be held in place by the lining. Which makes it stronger.
Finally, handstitched the lining hem and sleeve lining hems to the jacket. It is possible to machine at this point, but handstitching gave me so much more control. I could ease the lining to fit the jacket as I sewed.
I used my dress form to help me pin the lining in place, so it didn’t bunch or pucker the jacket. I put the jacket on the form inside out first, then right way to make sure the lining was smooth.
New buttons sewn on, and the jacket was done!
This project did take hours of careful planning and sewing, but we’re both delighted with the results. So happy to save this jacket!