Working on a posh frock – Vogue Couturier 1016

I’m going to a very posh ‘do’ in October – it’s a dinner at our local city museum. The perfect opportunity to sew a cocktail dress, but I couldn’t find a pattern that I wanted to make. Until I saw this one – has your heart ever skipped a beat over a pattern?!

Vogue Couturier 1016 pattern

The neckline, the draped skirt.  Sigh.  And it is in my bust size!  Er, yes, it was expensive, but not outrageously so, and I thought I could always resell it.  (PS there is no way I am selling it!).

vogue couturier 1016 muslin

I’ve resized a vintage pattern before, and found it a long process.  Having the right bust size make things so much easier.  The waist and hip were only slightly too small, so I made the adjustments at the side seams.  This is my first muslin and it fits!  (My dummy is smaller than me.  I see her as a challenge.  One day we’ll be the same…).

Vogue couturier 1016 muslin detail

I love the shape of the neckline.  It’s sexy but still modest.  Also the way the strap joins to the slanting edge.

The hardest bit to show you is the front draped panel of the skirt.  The skirt underneath is straight, then this panel is attached at one side and at the waist.  It floats when I walk and looks so pretty.

vogue couturier 1016 backI

I haven’t got the drape quite right.  There are no printed markings and I need to go back to the original pattern to check the position of the markings, which are just holes.  I think I missed a few.

My cocktail dress will be in midnight blue silk, and I’m planning to make a version in some black linen viscose first, to wear on holiday.

I need to do some research into boning.  The dress doesn’t need it to stay up, but I imagine it will give a better fit?  Do you have any experience in using boning?  It must be 25 years since I last used it for college ball gowns!

10 Comments

  1. Rigiline boning is flexible and can be sewn right up the middle inside a seam allowance or just next to the seam. Cover both ends with a small scrap of fabric folded over and you can put it wherever you need extra stiffness and vertical strength. They carry it at JoAnn’s and it is sold by the yard around $4.

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